Surely not everyone is interested in sleeping under the Royal Arch high above the Elves Chasm almost to the bottom of the Colorado River canyon, but for the six of us it was extraordinary. The easy shorter access is a couple days down from the south rim at the westernmost trailhead. And that route involves the aforementioned 20′ rappel, whose only downside is carrying the extra pounds of rope and gear to make the descent safely.
Fortunately we had a younger buck trail-named Matterhorn (AT and CT Thru-hiker) who gladly shouldered the 2 pounds of line and Melissa (Trip Wrangler and Canyon Botanist) who packed in the sling and hardware.
We also slept on a sandy beach at the rivers edge, on the Tonto (a dry camp where we had to insure enough water for a couple days, including the camping), and other times up on the Esplanade, also a dry camp. The younger contingent and the old master Will slept most nights “under the stars” while Mike and I preferred to use our zPack Hexamid Duplexes.
Mid-November in the Canyon can offer temperatures and conditions across the spectrum. We had clear days with temps in the 50’s and night time temps in the high 20’s to mid 30’s. We could hike in shorts most days but had to use all the gear to sleep warm at night. When you pack ultralight that means wearing all your clothes plus silk long underwear and down booties. Not every night required the full suit of clothing but an 18- to 24-oz sleeping bag needs extra layers of insulation to help below freezing.
It’s always interesting to see how hikers are treating their water, be it with a filter pump, chemicals or UV rays. Will and I carry UV SteriPens which will kill the parasites in 40 seconds for a pint of water. Chemicals take up to 27 minutes and pumps are heavy, harder and these days “old school.” The filter of choice now is a Sawyer squeeze filter which our mates used and we had as backup. One benefit of Fall hiking in the Canyon is the cooler temps require less water consumption so we only had to treat, pump or zap 3-4 liters a day.
The Grand (as the river is called by the cognoscenti) and the Canyon is full of history and lore that’s fun to discover and hear about. Our group had several raconteurs and chroniclers, so we enjoyed stories, visited obscure sites, and saw ancient and more recent ruins. Wish I could retain all that was related over the 8 days. One thing I do recall is that I should read Grand Obsession: Harvey Butchart and the Exploration of the Grand Canyon.
Happy to show anyone all the other photos from the trip. Thanks to group for sharing photos, as many of these are courtesy of them. We probably have over 500 to choose from.
What is certain is that I’ll need a refresher course and look forward to the next trip into our local Wonder of the World. Here’s hoping we can do a reunion trip because we’ll all be “younger next year”.
