Slickhorn

IMG_6293Spring and Fall are the only rational times to go backpacking in the Southwest Desert and I was lucky enough to get invited on a four-day adventure thru the Slickhorn region of Cedar Mesa in Southern Utah the first week back from Thailand.  There are now at least four other Ultra-light backpacking enthusiasts in Durango and we all ventured 3 hours southwest to hike a route chosen by the mentor of many who prefer to pack ultra-light, Will Rietveld. (He’s written about and reviewed Ultra Light gear for quite a number of years and is a native Durangoan – link.)  Actually everyone on this trip except me  has hiked all over this southwestern wonderland, but only Will had done this particular loop before. Last year I’d hiked and blogged about trails north and northeast of Unknown-1this region, so it was good to discover another patch of this BLM-protected land where hundreds of Ancestral Puebloan ruins exist in a desert backcountry setting.  You’d think we’d get tired of seeing and visiting ruins because we live so close to Mesa Verde National Park, but when you find these relics and ruins of ancient time along a trail without a soul around, it always produces awe and wonder.  These folks, the Ancestral Puebloans, spent about 1,200 years with estimates of as many as 40,000 people this desert backyard of ours, WoodenKivaand it’s a never-ending quandary thinking about how they lived, farmed and especially wintered in this high desert region.  Not much remains and when you come across their art, their houses and their shards or a tiny corn cob, it’s pretty special. 

I’ve seen and gone inside a fair number of Kivas (ancient underground structures thought to be ceremonial or religious in nature) but generally not often in remote locations where there is only a placard rather than a ranger telling you to respect the ruins.  In our 4-day 41 mile trek we probably visited at least 3 or more sites a day, which besides providing cultural InfoBinderconsciousness was always a welcome break out of the sun and heat.  At the “Perfect Kiva” they even had an information binder stowed in an ammo box if you wanted to know more about that particular site, it’s discovery (as late as 1976) and the environs. It’s was amazing that we could still go down inside the Perfect Kiva and hang out as long as we wanted.

IMG_6358IMG_6362Not sure how many readers are familiar with the Ancient Puebloan concept of the Sipapu, so I’ll let you know it “symbolizes the portal through which their ancient ancestors first emerged to enter the present world” Wikipedia. All these Kivas had distinct Sipapus as well as well-used niches, chimneys and the meditative tranquility of a very scared place.

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Of course, just hiking thru, around and over sandstone canyons is worth the effort.  We averaged 10 miles a day and not much of the route was on what you might call a conventional trail. This area is often visited, but requires lot’s of route finding thru the boulders, stream-beds, slick rock  and slides.

traverseboxcanyonAnother benefit of hiking with these UL guys is that we all can learn some new or alternate tip or trick and I was able to tweak my gear shortly after getting home.  Can’t wait to get back out on the trail again soon.

BTW on this hike my base weight was just under 9 pounds, plus food and water which decreases each day.  Sure beats the 40-pound days of the past.

 

Back in the Saddle

It seems to take us a little bit longer each year to recover from the 14 hour time change.  The stack of mail, posting tax statements in our returns, restocking the larder and restoring the Durango routines has kept us busy as usual.  We’re already spinning, hiking, mt. biking and road riding this first week back, despite the low concentrations of hemoglobin.

A maintenance trip to Silverton truly reminded us why we love Southwestern Colorado.  Just look at these clear blue skies, and the wildlife you’ll literally run into.

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IMG_0545Off on a four-day ultralight backpacking trip in the morning to high desert before it gets too hot to visit that country.  How many summers do you have left?

 

Bi-Lateral Home Stretch

StannaTempleYou may not have know but we’ve been on two different trips these past weeks.  Stanna in India, Bhutan and Nepal while I’ve been hanging in Trang.  And as usual we’re totally occupied right up to the last minutes.  It’s especially hard here in Trang as the exit isn’t ever easy.  Stanna’s last nights on her tour have been filled with dinner’s, demonstrations and even costume photos.

I’d planned some big rides, but recuperation from my handlebar malfunction allowed me to take on several other things on that long list you plan to get done while you’re away. I’m getting further and further from nerdland which each passing software and app update and in an effort to struggle back to SS Coding 2014Apr03the pack, I’ve had on my list to learn app coding.  I’m here to tell you it’s no joy and not easy until you see that simple tutorial project come up on the simulator screen.  Then it’s okay let’s learn some more, and it’s what I’ve heard kids do when they are learning to get to the next level in a computer game.  You’ve got to hit a wall, get destroyed or annihilated, proverbially

“tilt” the game (or in my case get error messages) and start over, many times from scratch.  Don’t get excited and send in any app ideas I’m only 30% thru a 420 video tutorial and my level of understanding is mostly focusing on learning the vocabulary.  Not to mention trying to overcome an aging dyslexic disfunction, which in coding makes it tantamount to impossible.

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You’ll have to trust the photoshopped image on the left, because Stanna actually did feed and ride a real live elephant, but unfortunately she now has the fingerprint of the photographer directly over the models head.  We’re hoping someone in her group got an untainted version of the pachyderm’s placidity as well as her reticence.  She used that quote from my dad, I mentioned earlier;  “I now ridden an elephant twice!”

Back on the Trang front, I finally got back on the bike for real and have been doing the 5 am morning rides with the Fahsang guys.  I was worried I’d lost my training level, but I IMG_6174think they must have taken the same 4 weeks off I did, because they still want me in front pulling them up the hills.  They are, however, very courteous and encouraging, shouting, “Pai Tom, Pai” directly behind me. Getting back in shape has allowed the ice cream fetish to resume and SunSern and I celebrated after lunch with an entire container the first day back on the bike.

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Meanwhile, Stanna’s been taking in culture and exotic lands rather than the local gluttony going on in southern Thailand.  I’ve managed to view quite a number of her photos thru the iOS Photo Stream capability and between the iMessages and the photos enjoyed much of her trip so far.  Broadband is available in all but one of her hotels albeit some fairly slow and generator dependent.

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And I’ve been sitting around shooting the shit with the riders at their day jobs.  Just like with Durango cyclists, where I hardly recognize anyone once they’ve removed their helmet, I’m amazed when we go around to see what each does for a living.  Real fun to go inside their shops, workshops, and businesses to see what’s on the other side of the counter.  It’s comes in handy when I had my wreck tattered jersey repaired, needed a IMG_6194scooter tire repaired, or even getting the defective Trek Stem repaired.  They all love “taking care” of the Fahrang.  Just yesterday I watched the entire process of making sweet treats at a small wholesale bakery.  Unbelievably simple process and quick assembly from raw materials to sealed package, probably took 30 minutes for a complete batch start to bagged and labelled in 10-packs.  They’d like me to import the sweet IMG_6182treats to the states, but I’m not sure they’d pass the FDA tests for salt ingredients.  They were so tasty I had to push the scrap bowl away after only 5 or 7 pieces.

You’d probably rather see more Nepal photos and so would I.  We’ll try and get a Trekking blog out as soon as we meet back up.  Hopefully this one will hold you at bay until then.  The Durango Ladies Hiking contingent dressed up to the “nines”.  (Can you say that for women?)  Soon we’ll be in Durango.

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House Happiness

IMG_4794 Could another household happiness besides a washer & dryer be a Roomba? We’ve known about these robotic devices ever since seeing them in action at Casa Bonita in Port Royal, Roatan. They seemed perfectly suited to maintaining that humongous, all-tile-floored house, but we never ever considered one for our condo with wood and tile floors with a large variety of throw rugs, many of which have fringe.

We recently visited Erica in Portland who acquired the pet version of the Roomba when it was featured as a sale item at COSTCO. Her family has three cats and it seems perfect for their household, and we were amazed to see it navigate carpets, tile floors and various rugs in the house. When this Scotch gadget fanatic learned the discounted price he had to have one, and so we now do.
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The first time we used it, we couldn’t stop watching it roam aimlessly thru the condo and, wonder of all wonders, find it’s way back to the docking station when it gets tired and needs recharging. We haven’t had that much laughing entertainment since the last time McKenney visited the condo. Not to imply he aimlessly wanders the condo, just the laughing part.

What’s most amazing is that the dirt drawer on the Roomba is filled every time we run it, and we’ve probably run it everyday since we opened the box. Where do all those dust bunnies come from?

We have decided not to let it prowl the premises while we’re traveling — no one around to empty the dreck out of the dust bin. So now we’ll have this un-named pet to greet us when we return.
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I’ve looked for a remote App to drive the Roomba to really qualify for true geekhood, but the current app required more add-ons than I want to contemplate before our winter sojourn.

Beware of In-Laws

Final

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Beware of in-laws… especially in-laws arriving with a car full of tools.

Erica, our daughter-in-law, bought a new house in Portland and invited us to come and help her move in. We offered to fix up a few things before she moved in while the house is empty. She had envisioned painting some rooms and putting a new shine on the hardwood floors. Little did she know when she asked us what we thought about the kitchen, that she’d end up seeing that kitchen in her front yard.

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The kitchen cabinets and countertop dated from the original construction of the house, designed in 1952 & probably constructed in 1954. (We know the date because we found the original blueprints, actual blue prints, high in a closet.) These are the kind of cabinets in which the carpenter, with his sawhorses placed right there in the kitchen, constructed each cabinet one piece & one board at a time. This is back in the days when they had clear one-by Pine and covered all the shelves with colorful shelf paper. And we want you to know that those cabinets and shelves came out the same way they went in, one board at a time with single-jack sledgehammer and wonder-bar in hand.

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I thought the cabinets were difficult and I didn’t even have to haul the demolition out the front door, Stanna did all that. But when I got to looking at the floor I learned a new kind of hard. Under the recently installed linoleum on top of vinyl tiles, there was the original linoleum with the in-laid trim around the edges, all cemented and glued down to a one-by-four plank floor. After several efforts of trying to pull up linoleum and the tiles with spatulas, chisels, hammers, heat gun and mineral spirits, I realized that the only way that floor was coming out was one plank at a time, or more like a half-plank at a time. Fortunately there was diagonal 1×8″ rough-sawn planking below that and I only needed to fit in 3/4″ ply and Durham’s Rock Hard at the joints to have a smooth base for the new cork floor.
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Erica’s last two homes have had IKEA cabinets so we spent several hours one day designing and spec’ing her new kitchen on the IKEA web-based software, and with the help of a design tech at the store we ordered and got same-day delivery (for $59) of the cabinets. IKEA’s 75 years of experience in this business certainly shows, we weren’t missing a thing and only took back three items we didn’t use but the tech thought we might need to have on hand. Assembling the cabinet boxes is only a small portion of the install process, but each step is simple and straight-forward even if you don’t read the instructions.
IMG_0319 You’ve got to hang the uppers on a rail, bottoms need leveling and fastening to the walls, and doors and drawers take still more time with some assembly and fitting of slides and hinges. All in all it is a very rewarding process, with little room for error until you get to the door and drawer handles. Those take concentration and no distractions, not to mention a jig for each size and style. Midway thru the project I realized we needed a table saw and fortunately Craigslist provided one for sale nearby within hours for only $75. Only tool we had to conjure up was a Pythagorean triangle to square the counter island.
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Along with the new kitchen we refinished hardwood floors and painted 14 gallons of Home Depot’s finest on rooms, closets and halls. Erica’s mom Lauren also contributed to the painting spree. There was plenty to work on, and sleeping on the jobsite floors facilitated 14+ hour days. Stanna and Erica made supply runs and I only had to leave the job site for flooring and cabinet decisions. Oh, and Christmas morning and dinner.
Final We managed to get everything we started done on schedule, only the countertops are lacking and they can’t be delivered until after the New Year.

Xmas in Portlandia

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It was wonderful to see so much of Molly Sharp’s handiwork festooned across the hearth in Portland. She will and should be remembered forever and especially for her handknit stockings personalized for each one of us, as well as for her family and countless others. If there is a heaven I’m sure Molly is one of the few people I know that’s looking down from there.

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It’s been a while since we’ve had Christmas with the grandgirls. Last time we had Christmas together was in Roatan Honduras. We still have very fond memories of the girls, actually one girl, swimming off the back of the boat and Sophie the younger just having the time of her life on one of the sandy beaches. I don’t remember having a tree on Paradox, but I’m sure we had happy times and plenty of presents.

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Good times were had by all and each in turn spent time appreciating their presents. And there were plenty of socks to go around, besides the stockings that were filled with small items and traditional treats. The girls got their wishes, one of which was a remote control helicopter and the other was a computer. Everyone got clothes and there was even an ultra-light item for tg.

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One present that neither of the girls anticipated or could even figure out once they were opened is pictured below.

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Did you guess that those are cloaks from the Harry Potter theme? Stanna stitched those up shortly before we left for Portland and surprised both the girls, one of whom has been to Harry Potter World and actually owns a Magic wand.

The girls like to cook and baking Christmas cookies was a treat they had with Stanna. Check out the aprons the girls are wearing, thanks to our earlier Switzerland trip.
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Farolitos at Mesa Verde

IMG_4682 Once again we visited the Luminaria lighting of Spruce Tree House at Mesa Verde. The National Park and volunteers put out thousands of traditional luminarias, called farolitos in Sante Fe, New Mexico, once a year at Mesa Verde. This year’s festival of lights was hampered by temperatures in the teens and icy roads up into the park itself.
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All the better for us, as there was easy parking and not much crowding around the ruins. You could actually get up to the chain barrier and take photos without other “bodies” in the viewfinder.
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It’s always a surreal experience visiting the Spruce Tree House ruin at night, because you readily get the feeling you’re visiting in an historic time period. Hearing an Indian flute playing in the background adds to the atmosphere of this ancient puebloan time. IMG_4662
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We visited with friends Mike and Judy and had a “tail-gate” dinner snack after visiting the ruins. Bundled up, it was unusually comfortable eating snacks out of the back of the 4Runner.

T-Day at the St Paul Lodge

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Family traditions are wonderful, especially if you can spend them at such a great place as the St Paul Ski Lodge on Red Mountain. We have been going up there for Thanksgiving since 1977 and wouldn’t miss it except when we’ve been out of the country, which was too often when we were cruising on Paracas and Paradox.
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When we only visit the Lodge on Thanksgiving, it becomes a trip down memory lane, or more aptly “up” memory lane, as the ski up generally takes about an hour. Plenty of time to re-visit all the prior trips and occasions like the first time we accompanied Daniel up the track at 4 ½ years old. Seeing friends that you only manage to visit with once a year, catching up on news and events, and re-living ol- times makes the holiday special for sure. IMG_4641

The George Family is an extended family at it’s best. And they extend an invitation to all close friends and family each year at the St Paul Ski Lodge for a Thanksgiving Turkey Ski. Donna and Chris provide the birds and guests bring their most special trimmings for a feast only surpassed by the following year’s event. There were six pies and two cheesecakes just to give a sample of the list of treats available. Teams rotate thru the galley kitchen making and preparing their dishes and washing up like a well oiled troupe.
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It’s hard not gain a few pounds no matter how conscientious you are about “holding back”, “pushing away” or denying yourself. The food is outstanding with several kinds of dressing, “real” mashed potatoes, salads, breads, veggies all transported up to the Lodge for the feast. Of course the meal follows an afternoon of snacking on hors d’oeuvres, wine and cheeses. Fortunately the “family” has a number of musicians and singers so the evening conviviality continues on into the night with music and song.

What a treat to be thankful for.

Double the pleasure

75 HP YanmarWorking on cats is always double the pleasure, for many reasons. Besides having to do everything twice, you get to learn on the first side and always do better on the second attempt. The downside is that the tool you need is invariably on that other side, or you’ve only got one part and you need a second part to match the first side repair or installation.

Dragonfly finally got two much needed new engines in preparation for it’s South Pacific adventure serving the Sea Mercy Mission. Old EnginesThe old engines had done well over 100,000 miles and untold hours according to Capt’n Al. It’s a testament to Yanmar that they held up so well. The new versions have one more cylinder and almost 30 more horsepower or 40% power, not to mention 15 years advanced design. It will be fun to watch Al’s face when he finally gets to open those throttles up to 3,600 RPM.Port Engine
One thing nice about pulling an engine is that you get to clean and paint the entire compartment without working around 500 pounds of engine in the way. That was my job, the clean-up Johnny, the step- ( or rather climb) and-fetch-it. Some days, I told Al, I felt like Sancho Panza helping Don Quixote fight windmills, especially when trouble-shooting inverter problems.

Al BeforeAll in all it was a very productive 14 days. Lots of wiring restoration, a number of bilge hose and pump replacements, a completely new freezer evaporator and condenser, a new 12v frig, replacement of the infamous windlass along with new batteries for same. Pulling the fore sails for repair and general preparations for the up-coming voyage. Seems like more work than when you see it in text, but I can assure you we put in 11- to 12-hour days the entire time. Nothing goes easy on a boat unless it’s the owners money.

Collapsed Notch One thing of note was that the travellift “notch” where Dragonfly has often been hauled is considerably narrower. Donny had hoped to have it replaced by now, but the current width is not enough to even allow straps around the hull. Notice the 3/8″ plywood fenders on the starboard side of the hull. At low tide that boat wouldn’t even rock in the river’s wake.Jam Fit

The port side wasn’t any better and sported it’s own plywood fender. A good time working with Al, and also getting to see Helen and Joe on DejaVu before they departed for the winter in the Bahamas. BTW I’ve never seen Deja Vu looking so fine. It would be a great time to make them an offer.

Five Fingers

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Not enough time to blog about last trip. Only home for 24 hours. I’ll catch up soon.

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Fall is regarded as the best time to visit the Southwestern desert and we hit it just right. Squeezing in a five day trip to Utah’s Canyons National Park was the perfect way to finish a summer hiking season. Our route was different if you watched out Spot Locator track since we base camped 10 miles into a series of dead-end canyons and tried, unsuccessfully, to connect between them each day.

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Fortunately, Will Rietveld did a lot of Google Earth research before the trip and set out a goal of trying to connect up a number of the box canyon fingers to make a loop route for future hikes. Zero for four was our success in the multi-day assault on the various fingered canyons. At the terminus of each valley we bush-whacked our way up to the sandstone and scaled the clean knobs and various cracks, only to find we need contour or traverse a bowl and go further up.
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The rewards of discovering windows thru the rock, caves and tunnels, arches and grottos far out weighed the chagrin of not managing a pass between to fingers. Not to mention the colorful sandstone layers contrasted by the clear blue desert skies.

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Making tracks in the pristine sandy washes didn’t hurt the feeling of treading on forgotten territory. Forgotten because in several of the canyons there is still panels of artwork from 1000-3,000 years ago, as well as remnants of grouted walls and small watch towers that proved people roamed this region long before us.

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New Desk

IMG_4405Finally upgraded my computer monitor to catchup with the times, after seeing several of our photos on other folks monitors, at 2560-by-1440 resolution. I realized I’m not getting the benefit sharp crisp colors my iPhone camera produces by viewing (and Photoshopping them) on a tired old first generation flat screen monitor. I got a 27″ iMac when they were announced early October and quickly found that my computer desk wasn’t large enough to feature the upgrade.
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deskSketchupWith the help of two consults, namely my sister Donna and good friend (and cabinet maker) Micheal, I designed it in SketchUp and then used my favorite “template” method to mock up a cardboard desktop that would take up the entire alcove.
In less than a week, and the help of still another friend (and finish carpenter) I had a finished birch desktop in situ. IMG_4435Once the recommended 5 coats of wipe-on polyurethane was cured, the new monitor (actually an all-in-one computer) fit nicely in it’s new home, and dwarfs the old one next to it. Now there is room to grow and spread out a project, but the best is seeing our photo library cycle thru literally thousands of our photos when the new monitors is on screen saver.IMG_4448

End of San Juan’s Overnight

SnowdenWe’re having a bit of Indian Summer and I was eager to get out in the high country once more before cold, snow and hunters preclude the possibilities. Stanna was off in Utah hiking with her Wednesday “ladies hiking” group for a couple days, so it was a prefect time to do a solo hike and knock off a couple more Audible books. With Durango daytime temps slated to be in the mid 70’s and clear skies, I figured it would be wonderful in the San Juans as well, which it was. Crater Snowden
In fact, I wanted to title this blog post a “Durango Calendar Day”, but realized that many may not know of the archaic expression “Swiss Calendar Day”. Like Switzerland when we have clear days it’s worth featuring on a calendar, like the vintage Swiss Air calendars of the 50’s. We’ve quite a bit of snow and wet weather, as noted in the news, so the trail was snow covered in the shady spots and muddy in the low parts, but outside that trail the views with early snow covered peaks was fantastic.
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Crater Lake, where I camped was snow covered in just about everything excluding the sunny side of the lake (photo above). At about 11,800′ I had to find a clear spot in the trees to stay off the snow and out of the boggy grass. The best part was that no one was at this popular destination at the foot of Snowden mountain and I had the entire area to myself. I arrived in late afternoon and had plenty of time to finish my book, lounging on my Neolite pad against a tree as the sun slid down the western ridge line of Snowden.

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CraterLakeTopoAs it was only 6 miles back to the trail head, I spent several hours in the morning reading the latest New Yorker on my iPad before I ventured back along the trail to Andrews Lake where I started. In case you’re wondering what I’m reading, I read Blink by Malcolm Gladwell (excellent), finished Freedom by Daniel Suarez (my fiction for the month), and started The Tipping Point by Gladwell as well.